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Into Thin Air

Teeing it up and letting it fly in the High Sierra

By Joel BeersPublished: June, 2005

Cartographers — you know, the people who make maps — want you to believe that northwest Nevada and southern Nevada are in the same state. That may be true based on imaginary lines, but the areas couldn’t be farther apart based on looks.

The Lake Tahoe-Reno area is nestled amid the stunning beauty of the Sierra Nevada Mountains and its rivers, lakes, pine forests and brilliant blue skies.

Southern Nevada, by contrast, is in the middle of one of the driest, dustiest, brownest and sun-baked deserts imaginable. The only color is on the Las Vegas Strip.

Yet these two extremes have at least two things in common: the jingling of slot machines and the whacking of golf balls. And Southern Californians looking to take a road trip this summer that involves clubs — of either the golf or card variety — can’t go wrong with either area.

Nevada legalized gambling in 1931. That momentous occasion sparked an ongoing transformation that has turned a chunk of the country from sparsely populated and rustic to one of the fastest growing states in the union. And golf has been part of that explosion.

While the courses that surround Las Vegas get the majority of hype, the 50 courses in the Reno-Lake Tahoe region — along with a wondrous natural landscape and a dizzying array of recreational opportunities — are creating a quieter and gentler buzz.

“In Vegas, everything is secondary to the gaming,” said Mike Mazzaferri, general manger at Hidden Valley Golf Club, a private club in Reno. “There are some undeniably great courses, yes, but it’s all about the glitz and glamour and the gaming. There’s a much different focus in this part of the state.”

While there are no shortages of casinos in Reno, Tahoe and Carson City, the vibe is different. To begin with, it’s not nearly as expensive.

“I’d say if you vacationed here you’d probably pay half of what a stay in Vegas would cost,” Mazzaferri said. “Food, golf, accommodations — it’s less expensive here but every bit as good.”

The golf courses range from mountain courses in Lake Tahoe to desert golf around Reno. But even the desert courses are at a relatively high altitude, meaning that “where you go around here in the summer the weather is about 90 degrees with 10 percent humidity,” Mazzaferri said. “So the mornings are tremendous and the country is just beautiful.”

And the options are plentiful. Windsurfing on Lake Tahoe, whitewater kayaking in downtown Reno, mountain biking, fishing and camping are just a few of the activities available in the area.

So go ahead. Roll the dice. Roll your golf ball. Roll down a mountain on your bike. The options are plentiful in Nevada. Both of them.

LAKE TAHOE
The conditions on Lake Tahoe’s golf courses rank among the best anywhere, because the courses are only open half the year. Most open in early May and close in October. They do get busy, but with all the incredible scenery, you might appreciate a few minutes of stillness. Elevations are more than 6,000 feet above sea level, meaning you get a lot more out of your driver.

The Resort at Squaw Creek

(800) 327-3353 • www.squawcreek.com.

The resort at the base of Squaw Valley is a beautiful part of the Sierras and site of the 1960 Winter Olympics. The Robert Trent Jones Jr.-designed course is one of the most environmentally conscious in the country. No pesticides are allowed on the course, which winds through protected wetlands and offers stunning views of the Sierras. The links-style layout is 6,931 yards from the tips and, since it is only open about half the year, the conditions are always pristine. Adding to the natural ambiance: no carts.

The course offers a family package throughout the summer ideal for first-timers or younger golfers. For $40, an adult and a child can play nine holes, with the tees set up 140 yards from each hole. The golf course is open to non-resort guests and green fees are $110 during the week and $125 Monday through Thursday.

Accommodations and amenities at the resort, which is open year-round, are also first-rate. There are 403 rooms and suites, with the smallest rooms ranging from $129-$379. There are also five restaurants, outdoor heated pools, a 10,000-square foot spa, a fitness center, children’s programs and access to all the recreational activities of Lake Tahoe and the surrounding forest.

Coyote Moon Golf Course

(530) 587-0886 • www.coyotemoongolfcourse.com.

By all accounts, this is one of the most stunning golf courses in the country. The Brad Bell-designed course winds along a creek, towering pine forests and granite peaks. As a mountain course, there are forced carries and severe undulations. Accuracy and shot-making ability are required. You’ll get up to 10 percent more distance due to the altitude, so keep that in mind as you traverse this immaculate 7,111-yard track. Green fees are $150 daily.

Edgewood Tahoe Golf Course

(775) 588-3566 • www.edgewood-tahoe.com.

The site of the 1985 U.S. Senior Open and one of the most acclaimed courses in the western United States, this George and Tom Fazio jewel rests alongside the placid waters of Lake Tahoe and is only a few steps from South Lake Tahoe’s casino row.
For years, Edgewood was synonymous with Lake Tahoe golf — it opened in 1968 — and the elder statesmen still holds up incredibly well. Green fees are $150 until June 1 and $200 until October 15.

Old Greenwood Golf Course

(800) 754-3070 • www.oldgreenwood.com

Located on the California side of the border, about 35 minutes from Lake Tahoe’s north shore, this is the newest course in the area and the only Jack Nicklaus signature course.

“He was heavily involved in this and his signature courses tend to be a little longer and more championship-oriented,” said Ryan Kallas, a pro at the club, which opened in August.

The course doesn’t have the severe undulations of more mountainous courses, but at 7,500 yards from the tips, you definitely need to bring a driver. Green fees are $170 daily, with $100 twilight prices beginning at 3 or 4 p.m., depending on the time of year.

Incline Village Golf Courses

(866) 925-4653 • www.golfincline.com

There are two courses in this small community between Reno and Lake Tahoe. The Mountain Course is a Robert Trent Jones Jr.-design that has been designated as a Certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary. It’s a par-58, 3,513-yard course that makes up in serenity and beauty what it lacks in distance. Green fees are $35-$55.

The Championship Course at Incline Village opened in May after a complete renovation. Nearly $5 million was spent restoring the Robert Trent Jones Sr. design to its original glory, with the greens, bunkers, tees and turf reshaped, resoiled and reseeded. Green fees range from $100 to $155.

The Resort at Red Hawk

(775) 626-600 • www.resortatredhawk.com

The Resort at Red Hawk is near the top of most lists. Robert Trent Jones Jr. designed the public Lakes Course, a 7,140-yard track seamlessly designed around natural lakes and springs. The Hale Irwin-designed Hills Course is a semi-private facility that will soon turn completely private. However, Irwin’s 18-hole putting course, championed by many as one of the best in the country, is open to the public.

The resort also includes informal dining at David’s of Red Hawk, or fine dining at The Steakhouse, and private villas fronting the golf course, which begin at $115 per person per night.

D’Andrea Golf Club

(775) 331-6363 • www.dandreagolf.com.

Troon Golf is known for managing upscale daily fee courses and this Keith Foster-designed track is no exception. Featuring some of the best conditions in the region and a design that runs through foothills and desert canyon, the course also provides amazing views. Green fees range from $40 to $100.

Lakeridge Golf Club

(800) 825-2200 • www.lakeridgegolf.com

Five minutes from downtown Reno, this Robert Trent Jones Sr.-designed course is one of the region’s most lauded. It’s only 6,700 yards from the tips, but Jones’ masterful design places a premium on accuracy and shot-making. Green fees range from $40-$95.

Northgate Golf Club

(775) 747-7577 • www.renolaketahoe.com/golf/northgate

Another steal for the price, this links-style layout is one of the Reno area’s newest tracks. Undulating greens, tricky wind conditions and plenty of elevation changes have earned the course the nickname, “the St. Andrews of the Sierra.” Green fees are $20-$46.

Wildcreek Golf Club

(775) 673-3100 • www.renolaketahoe.com/golf/wildcreek

It’s not often that you can play a course that some of the greatest golfers ever have played — especially at less than $60 — but that’s possible at this course, which has hosted three Champions Tour events. Incredible views and perhaps the best par-3 in northern Nevada — the waterlogged 17th — makes this a steal at green fees between $30-$59

Wolf Run Golf Club

(775) 851-3301 • www.wolfrungolf.com

One of the best values in northern Nevada, the green fees at this course range from $35-$75. At an elevation of 5,000 feet, the course plays shorter than the 7,100-yard distance from the back tees, but its fast greens pose a constant challenge.


WHERE TO STAY

LAKE TAHOE
A multitude of hotels and inns congregate on the south shore of Lake Tahoe and the north shore, which is near the Truckee courses. If you want all the energy and excitement of a big casino, there’s Harrah’s Lake Tahoe Casino Hotel (775-588-6611) and Harvey’s Lake Tahoe Resort (775-588-2411). On the north shore, the largest hotel is the Hyatt Lake Tahoe (775-832-1234), and there are many smaller lodges.

If your vacation is a week or more, you might want to look into renting a cabin. Call (800) 634-3397 or visit www.akevalleyproperties.com for information on how to rent everything from a one-bedroom cabin to a three-story home.

RENO
Reno bills itself as the world’s biggest small city and that blend of down-home friendliness and big-city excitement infuses its electric downtown.

There is no shortage of rooms in Reno, ranging from the 2,100 in the Hilton Reno Resort and Casino (average room price of $136) to the 116 rooms at the El Cortez (average price of $30).

Those wishing a Vegas-like experience should check out the tropical Atlantis Casino Resort, which averages around $200 a night. Harrah’s Reno (775-786-3232), the El Dorado (800-879-8879) and the Peppermill Hotel Casino (866-821-9996) are also big downtown hotels with casinos.

Of the 50 golf courses in this corner of Nevada, there are 20 premium properties, all featured on golfthehighsierra.com. The greatest concentration of top courses, however, is in the Reno area.
“Our high-end course is $200, which is Las Vegas’ middle,” said Hidden Valley’s Mazzaferri. “And we have a lot under $70. The value is incredible.”

Roar Like a Pro